Upolu Travel Guide
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Samoa Islands
Pacific Travel Guides
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Upolu
Travel Guide
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Upolu is the main island in Samoa, although at 1100sq km it is smaller than neighbouring Savai'i. The island is volcanic in nature, with mountains rising in the interior, the highest point being Mt. Fito at 1158m. Much of the original rain forest on Upolu has been cleared, and now only a few pockets exist.
The capital of Samoa, Apia, sits on the north shore with large villages extending along the coastal road to the east and west. Apia is a charming town with a pleasant harbour setting and is the hub of tourist activity and hotels. The International airport is 30km west of Apia at Faleolo, and the local airport for flights to Savai'i and American Samoa is at Fagali'i, just 5km east of town.
more on Apia
Exploring Upolu is easy, with a good coastal road and several roads crossing the middle of Upolu connecting Apia with the south coast. Public buses operate to most locations, but the further you go from Apia, the more infrequent the service. Buses run around the south coast only several times a day and schedules are unreliable. Car hire is an option. However, there are drawbacks: most car hire companies require your license to be endorsed at the courthouse in Apia before renting and insurance is seldom offered - hitting a child or pig will get you into serious trouble with the locals. It takes just over 3 hours to drive right around the island.
Heading east from Apia, the coast is tropical and rugged with pleasant mountain views and small villages along the rivers. There are several nice beaches along this coast, although not great swimming, but there is good surfing at Saoluafata Harbour. At Piula is Fatumea Pool where a natural fresh water pool sits right beside the sea and beneath a huge outcrop of rock upon which a Methodist church was built earlier this century.
Beach on North East Coast
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Fagalua Bay
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From Piula, the coastal highway cuts inland. At the picturesque Falefa Falls, a small paved off-road follows the coast to Utuloa Point passing some of the best accessible coastal scenery in Samoa. The paved road ends at the attractive village of Saletele, but you can walk right around Fagalua Bay along a rough dirt track to the village of Taelefaga where a sealed roads takes you back on to the main highway. This is one of the most attractive coastal walks in Samoa but you'll need a full day to make it at a relaxed pace. For the very adventurous, you could continue along the coast all the way to the vibrant Uafato Conservation Reserve. The reserve has some of the last remaining natural tropical forests in Samoa and bird life thrives.
The main highway by-passes this wonderful but remote area instead heading inland weaving up the mountains and over La Mafa Pass where excellent views can be seen towards the coast. The highway rejoins the coast at the eastern point of Upolu. This stretch of coast is very traditional with pretty seaside villages and views of the Aleipata Islands which sit a few miles offshore.
There are four islands in all, but only on uninhabited Namua Island is there accommodation. Namua Island offers absolute privacy, a lovely swimming beach, snorkelling and a good hike to the summit where on a good day you can see American Samoa on the horizon. It's possible to visit the other islands on a day tour by hiring a boat and captain from one of the coastal villages or by joining a kayak tour with EcoTour Samoa. These islands offer some lovely beaches and are home to hundreds of nesting seabirds.
Nuutele Island
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Lalomanu Beach
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On the southwestern tip of Upolu facing Nuutele Island is the picturesque beach at Lalomanu. The fine white sand and turquoise waters make this one of the more popular spots for travellers and locals alike (can be crowded at weekends). There are several beach fale accommodations here, the most authentic being offered by Taufua Fales.
The coast between Lalomanu and Saleapaga is one of the most scenic in Samoa with views of the razor-back mountain ridges and of secluded wild beaches. The road between the two villages coast is the quietest stretch on Upolu and is a good place for walking, taking about an hour and a half. At Saleapaga Village is another excellent swimming beach and the popular Faofao Beach Fales with great views back to Nuutele Island.
One of the nicest beaches on Upolu is at Vava'u, a secluded beach down a small dirt track. The beach is divided in two by a huge outcrop of rock, and a small islet on the far side makes a protected bay ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Vava'u Beach Fales are one of the few budget resorts in Samoa offering five bungalows with kitchenettes, a nice restaurant and complimentary kayaks.
Vavau Beach
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Sopoaga Falls
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The road beyond Vava'u cuts inland and winds up the mountain a few miles to Sopo'aga Falls which drops 200 feet into the valley. The road continues for almost 10-miles adjacent to the coast but a mile inland passing through the Togitogiga forest reserve and O le Pupu-Pue National Park. Several lovely hiking trails meander through the Reserve and Park with tracks leading to more secluded beaches. The lovely setting at the Togitogiga waterfall - several small falls running into deep pools which are excellent for jumping into - is a popular picnic spot with shower and changing facilities (a rarity in Samoa).
The cross island road from Apia joins the south coast road at Siumu where several small surf resorts are located. A 4-wheel drive track leads from here to peaceful Aganoa Black Sand Beach surrounded by lush tropical rainforest, where there is basic accommodation.
Maninoa Beach, near Siumu has several small beach resorts including Samoa's most exclusive resort at Coconuts and the budget Maninoa Surf Camp.
The south west coast of Upolu has lots of small traditional fishing villages off the main road which are great places to experience traditional Samoan life, although some are difficult to find as there are no signposts. At Saanapu, there's a peaceful board walk across protected mangrove forests which can be extensively explored by kayak hired from the local villages. You can stay at Saanapu Wetlands Retreat to really explore this unique environment. The forest is an excellent place for bird watching and solitude.
Maninoa Beach
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Salamumu Beach
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Beyond Sa'anapu Village there is mile upon mile of gorgeous palm fringed sandy beaches and snorkelling lagoons. This coast is inaccessible by road (except for one small track to Salamumu Village and Sa'Moana Resort) and offers a truly pristine beach environment. Virgin Cove Resort, on a fine white sand beach is a beautiful retreat aimed at backpackers and discerning travellers wishing to explore this remote coastline. It's possible to walk from Virgin Cove to Sa'Moana Resort (an upmarket resort offering the best surfing guides and equipment in Samoa) and on to the fine village setting at Salamumu, in a few scintillating hours.
The beach extends from Salamumu for several more miles passing the exquisite Matareva Beach (road access) and culminating at the aptly named Return to Paradise Beach (road access). Basic beach fales are available at both beaches but all provisions must be taken including water for drinking and showering. Day trippers will have to pay a custom fee of about ST$5 per person for access to these beaches.
The west coast of Upolu offers more coastal villages, splendid mountain and coastal views but few beaches and no accommodation. However, you can take a side trip to lovely Manono Island, just 20-minutes by boat, where over-the-water fale accommodation, traditional village life and archaeological relics await your discovery.
more about Manono Island
Mulifanua Wharf, on the north-west coast of Upolu, is the ferry terminal for Savai'i. A few miles beyond is the Samoan Village Resort offering large waterside bungalows, and a small beach. Faleolo International Airport is a few miles east from here along the north coast. Heading back towards Apia Town there are few specific points of interest and the villages tend to be larger and less traditional and the road more busy. This is the commuter belt of Apia.
Flights, Ferries and Car Hire
Upolu Accommodation
Tour Companies
Readers may also be interested in the following destinations:
Cook Islands Travel Guide
Fiji Travel Guide
Samoa Travel Guide
Tonga Travel Guide
Tahiti Travel Guide
Hawaii Travel Guide
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